Delhi... Mumbai (read: Bollywood!)... Home!

So, the final blog entry begins... After two days in Delhi spent mostly shopping for pressies (so many hours asking "do you have a Habajhan Singh t-shirt for my Pa" - and many hours playing singing bowls) I was just about out of money! I prepaid my taxi to the airport and made my way. Arriving at Mumbai, I called a Bollywood agent and asked if he had any work available for the day. He said yes, but I would have to get into town quickly... bummer, given the cash situation, I had been planning to take the bus. He suggested I get a taxi and when I arrived he paid for me and took me out to the set.
I walked into a room full of Indian men and one western woman, who had a pile of pink lacy garment next to her on the couch. I had a small panic about what kind of film I might have signed up for and declared that I would not be wearing anything like that!
Turns out the pink lacy was a quite respectable and cute top, and I was given a fabulous gold sequined dress that was great apart from its rather accentuating my boobs (like they need to be accentuated!!). The scene was an underground card playing bar and I basically played cards and chatted with some fellas for the day. I even got a speaking part... as the lead walked into the room, he touched me on the head and said "Hey babe", to which I replied with a wave, "Hey!". How's that for a filming debut! He he he.
After filming I was safely deposited back at my guest house. I spent a few hours helping the agent to find people for the next day's work (to earn some extra cash), but at the last minute the shoot was cancelled and thus my anticipated pay unavailable. Luckily, I was surrounded by lovely and generous travellers who were happy to give me enough rupees for the taxi ride out to the airport, some food and some sightseeing. I have been so blessed and supported during my travels, it has been amazing!
Am now back in Vic as a new adventure begins. I will be couch-surfing until I find somewhere lovely to live. Have already applied for six jobs - none of which I am extremely excited about however I need to bring in some cash soon. Am so looking forward to seeing everyone again! Mobile is functional so give me a yell if you want to catch up!!

Thanks so much for sharing my travel experiences... it has been great to know that others have been keeping track of my adventures. Lots and lots and lots of love, Chelle

Mcleod Ganj...Amritsar... Delhi...

Ooops, it's been a while since I last wrote! Am now in my last few days of travel before my new adventure begins (work as a health professional back in Melbourne). I spent a full month in Mcleod Ganj and witnessed the amazing onset of the monsoon. High in the hills, the monsoon officially arrives on June 15th, however a few days before there was an incredible downpour of rain (like, not just buckets, but full truckloads of water dumping the streets, buildings... everything). I walked the streets of Mcleod then up to Bhagsu and was drenched... even my brand new umbrella couldn't cope as I received a fine mist rain through the material! As I walked, I saw part of the hill adjascent to the road fall in a small landslide. It's amazing how quickly the road itself began to disintegrate. The stairs up to my guest house in Upper Bhagsu were pretty much a waterfall! In the week after this first fall, Mcleod became better known as M-Cloud... the entire town shrouded in mist most of the time. We all started to miss the sun fairly quickly.

On the 17th, a small group of Tushita people took a taxi out past Tashi Jong to meet Ani Tenzin Palmo. She is an amazing woman, a western nun who spent 12 years in meditation retreat in a cave in Northen India (you can read her story in Cave in the Snow - Vicki McKenzie). She welcomed us warmly and spent an hour with us, answering questions and giving spontaneous teachings. I feel so much gratitude to have had this opportunity to meet someone whom I deeply respect and admire. I am very inspired to continue to practice meditation and to go into a longer retreat sometime soon.

The following few days I spent assisting the 'Israeli Friends of Tibetan People' in promoting an awareness-raising event; Tibet- Now and Tomorrow. We put posters all over Mcleod, Dharamkot and Bhagsu and handed out many leaflets to travellers. The evening was a success, with over 120 people hearing about the recent history of Tibet (since 1949) and the story of an ex-political prisoner. The evening concluded with some volunteers chatting about the work they are doing to support the Tibetan people - Chris, Kinh and Sylvie rocked and Niv did an amazing job pulling it all together!

Next day, I travelled to Amritsar where I spent time at the Golden Temple... an amazing place of worship - even when I woke at 4am to catch the train, there were hundreds of pilgrims walking about the temple. I stayed in the tourist dorm and just outside there were hundreds of Indian pilgrims sprawled on the floor for the night. Dinner was an astoudingly efficient event... handed a plate, bowl and spoon, I was directed upstairs where I joined a long line (among many long lines) of people sitting on the floor. Fellas with massive buckets of dahl, chappati and some coconut stuff went by slopping food straight in the bowls. It was great!

The train ride the next morning to Delhi on the Shantibadi Express was the best ever... breakfast, heaps of room and arrival on time!! Amazing!! Have completed my gift shopping now and am just about out of cash so will probably just wander the streets of Mumbai tomorrow after my flight and get some relax time in!

See you all soon!!

Love Chelle

Happy Dalai Lama Days!

What an amazing few days! Since emerging from Tushita, I feel like I have been flat out socializing! It is wonderful to have connected with a group of truly wonderful people and I feel so blessed. I have been making music with some gorgeous Israeli boys (guitar and vocals) and a French-Canadian woman (violin). Slowly, my friends are departing Mcleod to travel north to Ladakh, however I have decided to stay put for these last few weeks... Shanti, shanti!
Each afternoon from Monday-Wednesday last week, I went to the Nyingmar Monastery to receive teachings on calm abiding meditation. It was great to go into greater depth regarding the technique and path of calm abiding meditation… however we were told that if we went into full-time retreat it would take between one month and one year to attain the state of calm abiding… and that is only the beginning of the Buddhist meditation path!! I am already considering going into a three month retreat next year.
Early on Tuesday morning we made our way down to His Holiness (HH) the Dalai Lama’s temple to await his arrival. Slowly the crowd grew as more and more Tibetans, Indians and foreigners gathered. After a number of hours, the clouds broke and we were drenched with a refreshing rain. His Holiness’s car flew by and everyone whipped out cameras on video setting… On slow motion you can just see his head in silhouette!
The next day, we made our way to the temple again to attend a Puja – HH, in his infinite compassion, was making prayers for the victims of the China earthquake. We waited downstairs for his arrival and were blessed to see him walk past only 1.5 meters away. His energy was absolutely beautiful and overwhelming and I was in a state of absolute joy. Later, after the Puja, we saw HH again and I couldn’t help but cry tears of joy. He is truly amazing and special! He is truly Chenrezig, the Buddha of Compassion! Om Mani Padme Hum!
The following two days we went to the Tibetan Children’s Village, where HH was giving teachings to Tibetan youth. Again, I was blessed to see him another four times, and to listen to the teachings translated over the radio. Such a special few days! On the final day, I took my camera and was able to take a few photos that I will cherish as a reminder of my ‘meeting’ the Dalai Lama.
Yesterday, a small group of Tushita people made the journey down through Dharamsala to see the Norbulingka Institute, a beautiful place where Tibetan culture is being preserved. We saw artists creating stunningly intricate Thangka paintings (paintings representing Tibetan Buddhist Deities), embroidery and other crafts. Afterward, we journeyed to the Gyuto Monastery where we met HH the Karmapa. He is the head of the Kagyu lineage of Tibetan Buddhism (you can check him out at www.karmapa.org). He is only 22 years old but already a powerful monk and we were able to receive a blessing from him.
This morning I have left my comfortable room in Mcleod-town and have headed to the hills of Upper Bhagsu. I have a gorgeous little cottage (a cow lives downstairs!) that I have made home and I plan to spend the next couple of weeks just relaxing, reading, meditating, singing and walking amongst the trees! Oh, and I will write and send the occasional job application too!

Tushita - 10-day Introduction to Buddhism Course

Om Mani Padme Hum!

My journey from Bodhgaya to Dharamsala was not without its challenges! I was amazed that the friendly travel agent at Root Institute was able to pull it all together and the plan allowed plenty of time for me to arrive to start my Intro to Buddhism course.
4am, I met the taxi and travelled through the darkness on the morning of Wesak (Buddha Jyanthi) to Gaya train station. My journey to Varanasi was uneventful and I found a rickshaw to take me to my guest house where I had a quick shower, collected my luggage and then made my way out to the airport. Arriving a good hour before my plane was due to leave, I checked in and prepared for the flight. After four hours of delay (due to 'mechanical difficulties'), I finally boarded the plane, praying that I would arrive in Delhi with sufficient time to catch my 10.10pm train to Pathankot. A speedy (but safe) taxi ride delivered me to the station a bit before 10 and I raced in (well as much as I could race, carrying a backpack, frontpack and guitar!), trying desperately to find the right platform. Finally, I arrived at the empty platform at 10.16pm and was told the train had already left. The station manager took pity upon me and arranged a ticket on another train that would deliver me some hours from Dharamsala. I slept a little through the night, delighting in the amazing thunderstorms that lit the night sky. I didn't even know where I should depart the train, but a kindly young man drew a map for me and I finally knew my station. Then, a taxi journey took me directly to Tushita where I had a small emotional breakdown, slept a bit and had a hot bucket shower.
The joys of travel in India!
The course has been challenging emotionally and physically. Though not as rigorous as vipassana, the knees still hurt a lot when sitting for long periods. Following the Lam Rim, or graduated path to enlightenment, we undertook analytical meditations on suffering, the certainty of death, the law of karma, and Emptiness, and then some less challenging topics such as developing bodhicitta and compassion for all beings. As the course progressed, I faced the internal nasties of pride, anger, ignorance and doubt and saw their effects in my life. I was also filled with happiness, love, compassion and generosity, and saw the great capacity within me to help others.
I am truly inspired to commit to regular meditation practice, and to work in a more conscious way with the unhelpful mind states. I can see more clearly than ever the purpose and goal of meditation practice and am very grateful to Dana, the meditation teacher. Venerable Dayki, an Australian-born Buddhist nun who led the teachings, was so lovely and I felt really comfortable discussing some of my philosophical and practical difficulties with her (like, are God and Emptiness essentially the same?? Can I take Refuge - become Buddhist - and still pray to God?? What would my day look like if I walk this path?).
We'll see!!
The last evening we made a light offering at the Stupa of Lama Yeshe, the Guru and founder of the Foundation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition. As we sat and gazed at hundreds of candles flickering, we recited Om Mani Padme Hum into the night, blessing all sentient beings with the wish that they be happy, and free from suffering. The mantra was so gentle... so beautiful... I cannot describe in words. It was truly a blessing to be there. Om Mani Padme Hum!
Lots of love to everyone!!
Chelle

Bodhgaya

Hello Dearies,

I have been in Bodhgaya (the place of Buddha's Enlightenment) for the past 5 days. Having searched in the centre of town for a suitable place to stay (hot, noisy and lots of harassment from enterprising young locals wanting to sell cds), I eventually walked out to the Root Institute for Wisdom Culture. There I found a retreat centre that was clean, with a gorgeous gompa in which to practice meditation, and access to a very well stocked library; including course materials introducing the Lam Rim (graduated path) of Tibetan Buddhism. The spiritual director has been happy to assist me, providing an mp3 filled with guided meditations, and we have had daily informal discussions regarding various aspects of dharma (Buddhist teachings).
Each day I begin my self-directed retreat with mindfullness meditation, and analytical meditation on aspects of the path follows breakfast. As two of the volunteer staff members are heading to London for a month, I offered my assistance... it just happened to coincide with the mail-out of their once-yearly newsletter so I have been spending some hours each afternoon filling envelopes and attaching address labels (while quietly chanting Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of compassion!!). At about 4.30 I walk into town to visit the stupa and bodhi tree (a descendent of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment), circumnabulating or just sitting quietly. Even with the many pilgrims, the place is amazingly peaceful, and the energy is very transformative.
After dinner I watch the Discovering Buddhism videos, which cover aspects of the Lam Rim in a really accessible way - I am learning a lot! It is wonderful to gain such a context for practice - beyond the simplicity of vipassana, the Tibetan path lays out stages of practice and cultivation of particular realisations. It all makes sense! My day closes with another meditation, on particular Tibetan Buddhist deities or purification practices.
The Institute has a health centre attached, and I was lucky enough to go with one of the doctors out to a rural health clinic. The mobile clinic runs 6 days a week, attending different rural communities. Bihar has a huge population and is the poorest state in India so there are massive health problems from malnutrition to TB to HIV/AIDS. The centre has two health educators that attend the rural clinics as part of a strong committment to health awareness and a preventive approach. The clinic provides homeopathic treatment for most health concerns, however there is also allopathic treatment available to manage more serious conditions, including an HIV/AIDS management program.
Am not sure how much longer I will stay here in Bodhgaya... at least until Wesak on the 19th. I am mindful that I still need to go to some touristy destinations before heading up north to do some more study in Dharamsala! Am considering changing my flight to allow a little more time in this amazing country...

Varanasi - Bodhgaya

Wow! Varanasi is truly amazing. I arrived after an overnight train journey (read: very little sleep) and was taken by autorickshaw to Elvis Guest House in a tiny cobble-stoned street by the Shivala Ghat. I spent my first day walking for hours along the ghats, spending time at the cremation ghats, contemplating impermanence, watching people bathing in the Ganga, cruising by on boats, and just generally hanging out. Eventually, as the sun became higher and hotter in the sky, I made my way through the narrow streets (barely missed by passing motorcycles), and went in search of some simple cotton punjabi suits to wear. Hours later, I emerged successfully carrying clothes, some bracelets and bindis, and returned to my guest house. That night, Lala, the guest house owner took two french girls and I to the main Puja at the Dasawamedh Ghat. It was the most beautiful devotional ritual... a rhythmic dance of graceful wrist movements; six young men swinging incence, elaborate candleabras and other objects to the four directions. At the completion of the ritual, I sent a small woven cup filled with flowers and a candle out to the mother Ganga as an offering.
Next day, Lala took us by rickshaw to some of the Hindu temples. It was wonderful to connect with this living spiritual tradition and to offer prayers at each of the temples. In the afternoon, I went to a house nearby where two girls put henna on my hands and feet. In the evening, I attended a concert of Indian classical music, tabla, flute and sitar, very meditative.
This morning I took an early boat ride on the Ganga, watching the sunrise as young boys practiced yoga on the ghats, men flew kites from boats and tourists took photos of the happily swimming and playing locals. Lala had arranged a Baba (spiritual teacher) to do my astrology so I went and had a reading. Though I would have loved to be convinced that he was legit, my critical mind was very aware that most of the things he said, I had already discussed with Lala... what a pity. When offered a talisman to protect me against negative situations for the next few years, I politely declined. Well, it is Varanasi, home to the spiritual and scammer!

I had a long motorcycle ride out to the train station, arriving only five minutes before the train left. The train ride to Bodhgaya was HOT and pretty full of people, but I have survived and arrived, and will go to the place where Buddha attained enlightenment tomorrow after a morning zen meditation session at the Japanese Monastery. Yippeeee!

Day One - INDIA

He he he!! I am in INDIA! Am waiting for my 10.45pm train to Varanasi, and happily digesting an awesome veg-thali dinner. After months of dahl baht, this food is seriously GOOD (no offence to the Nepalis... I mean, dahl baht is good, but it's really only dahl, and rice, and vegetables... Thali includs all that, but THREE different kinds of veg curry, there was paneer, two different veg curries, masses of chappati, AND gulab jamun (sweet dessert)). I just hope the belly copes with all the new families of bacteria!
This morning, having slept (or attempted sleep) in the little town of Bairwara, I set out on motorbike to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. My guide took me straight to the actual birthplace; there is a building (the Maha Devi temple) that houses the ruins of an older building (2nd and 7th century BC) and in the centre there is a stone that marks the Buddha's birthplace. I was filled with gratitude and awe to be there, all the stories of the Buddha's life flooding into my mind. I saw two little white rats who've found a home right next to the stone... enlightened rats they were!
All around the Maha Devi temple are pagodas and temples representing the Buddhist traditions from around the world. The German temple was beautiful and in the Tibetan style... my guide and I ran cirlces, turning the massive Mani wheels and chanting Om Mani Peme Hung! We also visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, Royal Thai temple, Indian temple and Burmese pagoda. Amazing!
Feels good to be on the road again... will try to keep the blog relatively up-to-date!