Wow! Varanasi is truly amazing. I arrived after an overnight train journey (read: very little sleep) and was taken by autorickshaw to Elvis Guest House in a tiny cobble-stoned street by the Shivala Ghat. I spent my first day walking for hours along the ghats, spending time at the cremation ghats, contemplating impermanence, watching people bathing in the Ganga, cruising by on boats, and just generally hanging out. Eventually, as the sun became higher and hotter in the sky, I made my way through the narrow streets (barely missed by passing motorcycles), and went in search of some simple cotton punjabi suits to wear. Hours later, I emerged successfully carrying 
clothes, some bracelets and bindis, and returned to my guest house. That night, Lala, the guest house owner took two french girls and I to the main Puja at the Dasawamedh Ghat. It was the most beautiful devotional ritual... a rhythmic dance of graceful wrist movements; six young men swinging incence, elaborate candleabras and other objects to the four directions. At the completion of the ritual, I sent a small woven cup filled with flowers and a candle out to the mother Ganga as an offering.
Next day, Lala took us by rickshaw to some of the Hindu temples. It was wonderful to connect with this living spiritual tradition and to offer prayers at each of the temples. In the afternoon, I went to a house nearby where two girls put henna on my hands and feet. In the evening, I attended a concert of Indian classical music, tabla, flute and sitar, very meditative.
This morning I took an early boat ride on the Ganga, watching the sunrise as young boys practiced yoga on the ghats, men flew kites from boats and tourists took photos of the happily swimming and playing locals. Lala had arranged a Baba (spiritual teacher) to do my astrology so I went and had a reading. Though I would have loved to be convinced that he was legit, my critical mind was very aware that most of the things he said, I had already discussed with Lala... what a pity. When offered a talisman to protect me against negative situations for the next few years, I politely declined. Well, it is Varanasi, home to the spiritual and scammer!
clothes, some bracelets and bindis, and returned to my guest house. That night, Lala, the guest house owner took two french girls and I to the main Puja at the Dasawamedh Ghat. It was the most beautiful devotional ritual... a rhythmic dance of graceful wrist movements; six young men swinging incence, elaborate candleabras and other objects to the four directions. At the completion of the ritual, I sent a small woven cup filled with flowers and a candle out to the mother Ganga as an offering.
Next day, Lala took us by rickshaw to some of the Hindu temples. It was wonderful to connect with this living spiritual tradition and to offer prayers at each of the temples. In the afternoon, I went to a house nearby where two girls put henna on my hands and feet. In the evening, I attended a concert of Indian classical music, tabla, flute and sitar, very meditative.This morning I took an early boat ride on the Ganga, watching the sunrise as young boys practiced yoga on the ghats, men flew kites from boats and tourists took photos of the happily swimming and playing locals. Lala had arranged a Baba (spiritual teacher) to do my astrology so I went and had a reading. Though I would have loved to be convinced that he was legit, my critical mind was very aware that most of the things he said, I had already discussed with Lala... what a pity. When offered a talisman to protect me against negative situations for the next few years, I politely declined. Well, it is Varanasi, home to the spiritual and scammer!
I had a long motorcycle ride out to the train station, arriving only five minutes before the train left. The train ride to Bodhgaya was HOT and pretty full of people, but I have survived and arrived, and will go to the place where Buddha attained enlightenment tomorrow after a morning zen meditation session at the Japanese Monastery. Yippeeee!
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