Angkor Wat Adventures

Having survived a bout of travel sickness that began with a fever on New Year's Eve and ended with three days of antibiotics, I have made it to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. The bus journey from Sihanoukville to Siem Reap was an unevenful 10 hours via Phnom Pehn... great opportunity to finish a fat book I had begun earlier.

On my birthday, I spent the day being ferried like a queen in a remorque-moto, which is basically a little covered carriage attached to the back of a motorbike. I visited Angkor Wat, where the outer walkways hold amazing bas-relief images depicting scenes from the Hindu text, Mahabarata. Most of the temples in the area are Hindu and Buddhist, so there are many images of Visnu, Shiva, Buddha, and everywhere are the 'heavenly nymphs' or apsara.

The Bayon was absolutely amazing... a fairy tale. My imagination was alight with images, deep within the temple there are tiny passageways with 'fake' doorways leading into the stone... In the upper levels, I came face to face with the enormous images with enigmatic smiles... The scholars are undecided whether the faces represent the King Jayavarman, Brahmam or Avalokiteswara. I personally go with the Avalokiteswara theory, who is the Boddhisattva of Compassion (remember Om Mani Padme Hum?? - that's his mantra). Supposedly the King was a Mahayana Buddhist and performed many compassionate works during his reign, including building rest houses for pilgrims, paved roads and many hospitals.

Ta Keo was a personal triumph, as the steep walls were physically and psychologically demanding. I would love to make up a t-shirt that says, Í survived Ta Keo'. There are restorations works that have left a mottled appearance, with new sandstone aligned with old. Preah Khan was quite simply HUGE. The long corridors created amazing photo opportunities. As I walked from north to south, I found myself spooked in the dimly lit corridor, my head was full of screams and the sound of great rocks crashing to the ground. Eventually I reached the south entrance of the building where the passageway opened onto a beautiful path, leading into the surrounding jungle. I felt peace again!

Ta Phrom was beautiful... this is the temple where nature is reclaiming her domain. Great trees embrace the ruins, and in some cases, their roots are splitting the wall away. My camera had run out of battery on the first day so I was able to just wander and observe, without that touristy appendage... on day two I returned to photograph the wonderful scenery.

I climbed the mountain to Phnom Bakheng that evening, braving the hordes of tourists, and watched a gorgeous sunset. Sitting a little way away I was able to quietly chant the gyatri mantra. As the sun dipped below the horizon the crowd (there were seriously hundreds) gave a great cheer to the sun! It was kind of funny and lovely to be part of humanity at that moment!

The next morning, my moto driver picked me up at 5.15 and we made our way back to Angkor. I found a position in front of the lake and awaited the rising sun. It was interesting to observe the territorial bickering of the early arrivers as people began to stand right in the way of their carefully planned photo frames. I took a series of photos using different settings and I think some of them have turned out quite well!

Day three I made my way out to Banteay Srei, a long journey by moto. At one point the driver didn't slow enough going over a speed bump and I was nearly concussed with my head slamming into the roof! The stone work at this temple is the most intricate, even though the temple is quite small. Some of the images looked three dimensional... amazing and beautiful.

Upon returning to town, I hired a bicycle and made my way to the National Angkor Museum, where I learned about the history and art of Angkor, and more about the Kings. I think that's about caught up!