Thursday, March 20, 2008

Nepal Shenanigans

Wooo Hoooo! I am in Nepal. I can't believe how excited I am, even considering the day I've had.
Yesterday I was up at 6.30am to travel by bus from Pai to Chiang Mai, then by overnight train to Bangkok. I foolishly assumed that there would be a shower on the train so skipped the outdoor bathroom experience (cold shower) out back of my hut at the organic farm. The train journey was looong, and my night's sleep was interrupted by various stops through the night, always accompanied by loud speaker announcements. So, having arrived at Bangkok train station, I found a taxi and made my way to Bangkok International Airport. There I foolishly assumed that I would find an ATM as I had spent my last 350 baht on the taxi fare (and was still short the toll fare so ended up giving the driver my two packets of noodles for his lunch to make up the difference). In desperation for a shower (it had been two nights and my scalp was crawling) and with the intention of baggsing a window seat, I quickly checked in for my flight and deposited my luggage.
After I had successfully 'departed' Thailand at the visa counter, I discovered there is no ATM at the Bangkok airport so I was completely cashless and still desperate for a shower. I searched one end of the international terminal to the other and was kindly rejected from using the Thai Airways lounge (only for first and business class passengers - prats). By now I was feeling the lack of sleep and noticing my temper was getting shorter (annoyed, annoyed, annoyed... angry, angry, angry). I eventually found a day spa and was able to pay for a shower (400 baht - that's the most expensive shower I have ever had) using my visa card. It was divine! Oh, to be clean!
I boarded the plane smelling far sweeter than I might have otherwise and we had a fairly smooth journey. Having failed in my intention to get a window seat, unfortunately I didn't see any of the Kathmandu approach.
The lonely planet had said that the airport had an ATM next to the visa desks, however, there was no ATM inside so I had to leave my passport and go outside, where, of course, the ATM was not working. I had some moments of amused panic... how would this little dilemma be resolved? After considering asking complete strangers to loan me the $30 for the visa, I discovered there is a 3-day visa for free. I took the visa after reassuring the immigration staff that I would go to the Department of Immigration in town to obtain a 30-day visa.
I have found a place to stay, the Happy Home Guest House, and have already found a new friend, a fellow who runs music treks. Trek all day then play music all night! What fun! Have just been convinced to buy a sandlewood flute and a bracelet even though I had no intentions of spending any money at all... these guys are damn good! Have also traded my too-small boots in for a better fitting but lower quality pair. Am hoping they will last the distance of my trek.
Tomorrow is Holi, a celebration where everyone (well, the young and young at heart) throws coloured water or paint on each other, fabulous timing to arrive in the city. Gotta go have some dinner!

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