Tushita - 10-day Introduction to Buddhism Course

Om Mani Padme Hum!

My journey from Bodhgaya to Dharamsala was not without its challenges! I was amazed that the friendly travel agent at Root Institute was able to pull it all together and the plan allowed plenty of time for me to arrive to start my Intro to Buddhism course.
4am, I met the taxi and travelled through the darkness on the morning of Wesak (Buddha Jyanthi) to Gaya train station. My journey to Varanasi was uneventful and I found a rickshaw to take me to my guest house where I had a quick shower, collected my luggage and then made my way out to the airport. Arriving a good hour before my plane was due to leave, I checked in and prepared for the flight. After four hours of delay (due to 'mechanical difficulties'), I finally boarded the plane, praying that I would arrive in Delhi with sufficient time to catch my 10.10pm train to Pathankot. A speedy (but safe) taxi ride delivered me to the station a bit before 10 and I raced in (well as much as I could race, carrying a backpack, frontpack and guitar!), trying desperately to find the right platform. Finally, I arrived at the empty platform at 10.16pm and was told the train had already left. The station manager took pity upon me and arranged a ticket on another train that would deliver me some hours from Dharamsala. I slept a little through the night, delighting in the amazing thunderstorms that lit the night sky. I didn't even know where I should depart the train, but a kindly young man drew a map for me and I finally knew my station. Then, a taxi journey took me directly to Tushita where I had a small emotional breakdown, slept a bit and had a hot bucket shower.
The joys of travel in India!
The course has been challenging emotionally and physically. Though not as rigorous as vipassana, the knees still hurt a lot when sitting for long periods. Following the Lam Rim, or graduated path to enlightenment, we undertook analytical meditations on suffering, the certainty of death, the law of karma, and Emptiness, and then some less challenging topics such as developing bodhicitta and compassion for all beings. As the course progressed, I faced the internal nasties of pride, anger, ignorance and doubt and saw their effects in my life. I was also filled with happiness, love, compassion and generosity, and saw the great capacity within me to help others.
I am truly inspired to commit to regular meditation practice, and to work in a more conscious way with the unhelpful mind states. I can see more clearly than ever the purpose and goal of meditation practice and am very grateful to Dana, the meditation teacher. Venerable Dayki, an Australian-born Buddhist nun who led the teachings, was so lovely and I felt really comfortable discussing some of my philosophical and practical difficulties with her (like, are God and Emptiness essentially the same?? Can I take Refuge - become Buddhist - and still pray to God?? What would my day look like if I walk this path?).
We'll see!!
The last evening we made a light offering at the Stupa of Lama Yeshe, the Guru and founder of the Foundation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition. As we sat and gazed at hundreds of candles flickering, we recited Om Mani Padme Hum into the night, blessing all sentient beings with the wish that they be happy, and free from suffering. The mantra was so gentle... so beautiful... I cannot describe in words. It was truly a blessing to be there. Om Mani Padme Hum!
Lots of love to everyone!!
Chelle

Bodhgaya

Hello Dearies,

I have been in Bodhgaya (the place of Buddha's Enlightenment) for the past 5 days. Having searched in the centre of town for a suitable place to stay (hot, noisy and lots of harassment from enterprising young locals wanting to sell cds), I eventually walked out to the Root Institute for Wisdom Culture. There I found a retreat centre that was clean, with a gorgeous gompa in which to practice meditation, and access to a very well stocked library; including course materials introducing the Lam Rim (graduated path) of Tibetan Buddhism. The spiritual director has been happy to assist me, providing an mp3 filled with guided meditations, and we have had daily informal discussions regarding various aspects of dharma (Buddhist teachings).
Each day I begin my self-directed retreat with mindfullness meditation, and analytical meditation on aspects of the path follows breakfast. As two of the volunteer staff members are heading to London for a month, I offered my assistance... it just happened to coincide with the mail-out of their once-yearly newsletter so I have been spending some hours each afternoon filling envelopes and attaching address labels (while quietly chanting Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of compassion!!). At about 4.30 I walk into town to visit the stupa and bodhi tree (a descendent of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment), circumnabulating or just sitting quietly. Even with the many pilgrims, the place is amazingly peaceful, and the energy is very transformative.
After dinner I watch the Discovering Buddhism videos, which cover aspects of the Lam Rim in a really accessible way - I am learning a lot! It is wonderful to gain such a context for practice - beyond the simplicity of vipassana, the Tibetan path lays out stages of practice and cultivation of particular realisations. It all makes sense! My day closes with another meditation, on particular Tibetan Buddhist deities or purification practices.
The Institute has a health centre attached, and I was lucky enough to go with one of the doctors out to a rural health clinic. The mobile clinic runs 6 days a week, attending different rural communities. Bihar has a huge population and is the poorest state in India so there are massive health problems from malnutrition to TB to HIV/AIDS. The centre has two health educators that attend the rural clinics as part of a strong committment to health awareness and a preventive approach. The clinic provides homeopathic treatment for most health concerns, however there is also allopathic treatment available to manage more serious conditions, including an HIV/AIDS management program.
Am not sure how much longer I will stay here in Bodhgaya... at least until Wesak on the 19th. I am mindful that I still need to go to some touristy destinations before heading up north to do some more study in Dharamsala! Am considering changing my flight to allow a little more time in this amazing country...

Varanasi - Bodhgaya

Wow! Varanasi is truly amazing. I arrived after an overnight train journey (read: very little sleep) and was taken by autorickshaw to Elvis Guest House in a tiny cobble-stoned street by the Shivala Ghat. I spent my first day walking for hours along the ghats, spending time at the cremation ghats, contemplating impermanence, watching people bathing in the Ganga, cruising by on boats, and just generally hanging out. Eventually, as the sun became higher and hotter in the sky, I made my way through the narrow streets (barely missed by passing motorcycles), and went in search of some simple cotton punjabi suits to wear. Hours later, I emerged successfully carrying clothes, some bracelets and bindis, and returned to my guest house. That night, Lala, the guest house owner took two french girls and I to the main Puja at the Dasawamedh Ghat. It was the most beautiful devotional ritual... a rhythmic dance of graceful wrist movements; six young men swinging incence, elaborate candleabras and other objects to the four directions. At the completion of the ritual, I sent a small woven cup filled with flowers and a candle out to the mother Ganga as an offering.
Next day, Lala took us by rickshaw to some of the Hindu temples. It was wonderful to connect with this living spiritual tradition and to offer prayers at each of the temples. In the afternoon, I went to a house nearby where two girls put henna on my hands and feet. In the evening, I attended a concert of Indian classical music, tabla, flute and sitar, very meditative.
This morning I took an early boat ride on the Ganga, watching the sunrise as young boys practiced yoga on the ghats, men flew kites from boats and tourists took photos of the happily swimming and playing locals. Lala had arranged a Baba (spiritual teacher) to do my astrology so I went and had a reading. Though I would have loved to be convinced that he was legit, my critical mind was very aware that most of the things he said, I had already discussed with Lala... what a pity. When offered a talisman to protect me against negative situations for the next few years, I politely declined. Well, it is Varanasi, home to the spiritual and scammer!

I had a long motorcycle ride out to the train station, arriving only five minutes before the train left. The train ride to Bodhgaya was HOT and pretty full of people, but I have survived and arrived, and will go to the place where Buddha attained enlightenment tomorrow after a morning zen meditation session at the Japanese Monastery. Yippeeee!

Day One - INDIA

He he he!! I am in INDIA! Am waiting for my 10.45pm train to Varanasi, and happily digesting an awesome veg-thali dinner. After months of dahl baht, this food is seriously GOOD (no offence to the Nepalis... I mean, dahl baht is good, but it's really only dahl, and rice, and vegetables... Thali includs all that, but THREE different kinds of veg curry, there was paneer, two different veg curries, masses of chappati, AND gulab jamun (sweet dessert)). I just hope the belly copes with all the new families of bacteria!
This morning, having slept (or attempted sleep) in the little town of Bairwara, I set out on motorbike to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. My guide took me straight to the actual birthplace; there is a building (the Maha Devi temple) that houses the ruins of an older building (2nd and 7th century BC) and in the centre there is a stone that marks the Buddha's birthplace. I was filled with gratitude and awe to be there, all the stories of the Buddha's life flooding into my mind. I saw two little white rats who've found a home right next to the stone... enlightened rats they were!
All around the Maha Devi temple are pagodas and temples representing the Buddhist traditions from around the world. The German temple was beautiful and in the Tibetan style... my guide and I ran cirlces, turning the massive Mani wheels and chanting Om Mani Peme Hung! We also visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, Royal Thai temple, Indian temple and Burmese pagoda. Amazing!
Feels good to be on the road again... will try to keep the blog relatively up-to-date!

Kathmandu - STILL!!

Howdy Folks,

Long time no write! I have spent the past few weeks in Kathmandu, living at Happy Home guest house. Although I finally got my India visa, circumstances suggested that I stay in Nepal just a little longer. For a while I was feeling lost, wandering the streets of Thamel (tourist section of Kathmandu) and feeling overwhelmed with the noise, beggars and consumer culture. So I took myself to a yoga class where I met Catherine (an aussie who has been volunteering for 5 months) and later, in the yoga teacher's office, Robert (from Spain, who will be volunteering for 5 months). Turns out that Catherine was about to run a Leadership course for Trekking Guides through the Kathmandu Environmental Education Project. I cheerfully offered my help, and eventually she agreed. I assisted with the course preparation then attended the five day course, running the practical exercises and other activities. It was great to spend time with the trekking leaders and I found that the course material was all very familiar from my previous studies - leadership styles, assertiveness, problem solving, conflict management... etc etc. KEEP ran a beautiful closing ceremony, where the 'respected teachers' were offered Kata (scarves), a certificate of appreciation and a present! I felt very warm and fuzzy.
Have also been spending time 'getting to know' my singing bowls and have reconnected with my inner healer, offering reiki to a friend and helping to set up a reiki practice group with Robert at a local Osho-based healing centre. Have also been practicing some Osho meditations and went out to the Osho retreat at Nagarjun Forest Reserve yesterday - absolutely gorgeous setting! Am not yet convinced that the meditations are for me though.
I have met so many lovely people in this town, have got a decent grasp on the Nepali language (tourist-basics!), have learned to love dahl baht for lunch and dinner, and no longer mind the harrassment to buy tiger balm, smoke, necklace or take rickshaw (Chine Dai Na - I don't need). It will be very hard to leave, but I had set myself a deadline regarding volunteer work and I will stick to it: if I didn't find any health-related volunteer work by Wednesday, I go to India with Katrin (my Annapurna trekking partner)... So, we go to India!
We will take the bus to Sunauli then train to either Varanasi or across to Delhi then north to Dharamsala and Mcleod Ganj. Everyone I meet who has just arrived from Varanasi says we are crazy to consider going there now as it is about 45 degrees, however I feel that Varanasi is essential India and I don't want to miss it! Dilemmas!
Chat soon!