Delhi... Mumbai (read: Bollywood!)... Home!

So, the final blog entry begins... After two days in Delhi spent mostly shopping for pressies (so many hours asking "do you have a Habajhan Singh t-shirt for my Pa" - and many hours playing singing bowls) I was just about out of money! I prepaid my taxi to the airport and made my way. Arriving at Mumbai, I called a Bollywood agent and asked if he had any work available for the day. He said yes, but I would have to get into town quickly... bummer, given the cash situation, I had been planning to take the bus. He suggested I get a taxi and when I arrived he paid for me and took me out to the set.
I walked into a room full of Indian men and one western woman, who had a pile of pink lacy garment next to her on the couch. I had a small panic about what kind of film I might have signed up for and declared that I would not be wearing anything like that!
Turns out the pink lacy was a quite respectable and cute top, and I was given a fabulous gold sequined dress that was great apart from its rather accentuating my boobs (like they need to be accentuated!!). The scene was an underground card playing bar and I basically played cards and chatted with some fellas for the day. I even got a speaking part... as the lead walked into the room, he touched me on the head and said "Hey babe", to which I replied with a wave, "Hey!". How's that for a filming debut! He he he.
After filming I was safely deposited back at my guest house. I spent a few hours helping the agent to find people for the next day's work (to earn some extra cash), but at the last minute the shoot was cancelled and thus my anticipated pay unavailable. Luckily, I was surrounded by lovely and generous travellers who were happy to give me enough rupees for the taxi ride out to the airport, some food and some sightseeing. I have been so blessed and supported during my travels, it has been amazing!
Am now back in Vic as a new adventure begins. I will be couch-surfing until I find somewhere lovely to live. Have already applied for six jobs - none of which I am extremely excited about however I need to bring in some cash soon. Am so looking forward to seeing everyone again! Mobile is functional so give me a yell if you want to catch up!!

Thanks so much for sharing my travel experiences... it has been great to know that others have been keeping track of my adventures. Lots and lots and lots of love, Chelle

Mcleod Ganj...Amritsar... Delhi...

Ooops, it's been a while since I last wrote! Am now in my last few days of travel before my new adventure begins (work as a health professional back in Melbourne). I spent a full month in Mcleod Ganj and witnessed the amazing onset of the monsoon. High in the hills, the monsoon officially arrives on June 15th, however a few days before there was an incredible downpour of rain (like, not just buckets, but full truckloads of water dumping the streets, buildings... everything). I walked the streets of Mcleod then up to Bhagsu and was drenched... even my brand new umbrella couldn't cope as I received a fine mist rain through the material! As I walked, I saw part of the hill adjascent to the road fall in a small landslide. It's amazing how quickly the road itself began to disintegrate. The stairs up to my guest house in Upper Bhagsu were pretty much a waterfall! In the week after this first fall, Mcleod became better known as M-Cloud... the entire town shrouded in mist most of the time. We all started to miss the sun fairly quickly.

On the 17th, a small group of Tushita people took a taxi out past Tashi Jong to meet Ani Tenzin Palmo. She is an amazing woman, a western nun who spent 12 years in meditation retreat in a cave in Northen India (you can read her story in Cave in the Snow - Vicki McKenzie). She welcomed us warmly and spent an hour with us, answering questions and giving spontaneous teachings. I feel so much gratitude to have had this opportunity to meet someone whom I deeply respect and admire. I am very inspired to continue to practice meditation and to go into a longer retreat sometime soon.

The following few days I spent assisting the 'Israeli Friends of Tibetan People' in promoting an awareness-raising event; Tibet- Now and Tomorrow. We put posters all over Mcleod, Dharamkot and Bhagsu and handed out many leaflets to travellers. The evening was a success, with over 120 people hearing about the recent history of Tibet (since 1949) and the story of an ex-political prisoner. The evening concluded with some volunteers chatting about the work they are doing to support the Tibetan people - Chris, Kinh and Sylvie rocked and Niv did an amazing job pulling it all together!

Next day, I travelled to Amritsar where I spent time at the Golden Temple... an amazing place of worship - even when I woke at 4am to catch the train, there were hundreds of pilgrims walking about the temple. I stayed in the tourist dorm and just outside there were hundreds of Indian pilgrims sprawled on the floor for the night. Dinner was an astoudingly efficient event... handed a plate, bowl and spoon, I was directed upstairs where I joined a long line (among many long lines) of people sitting on the floor. Fellas with massive buckets of dahl, chappati and some coconut stuff went by slopping food straight in the bowls. It was great!

The train ride the next morning to Delhi on the Shantibadi Express was the best ever... breakfast, heaps of room and arrival on time!! Amazing!! Have completed my gift shopping now and am just about out of cash so will probably just wander the streets of Mumbai tomorrow after my flight and get some relax time in!

See you all soon!!

Love Chelle

Happy Dalai Lama Days!

What an amazing few days! Since emerging from Tushita, I feel like I have been flat out socializing! It is wonderful to have connected with a group of truly wonderful people and I feel so blessed. I have been making music with some gorgeous Israeli boys (guitar and vocals) and a French-Canadian woman (violin). Slowly, my friends are departing Mcleod to travel north to Ladakh, however I have decided to stay put for these last few weeks... Shanti, shanti!
Each afternoon from Monday-Wednesday last week, I went to the Nyingmar Monastery to receive teachings on calm abiding meditation. It was great to go into greater depth regarding the technique and path of calm abiding meditation… however we were told that if we went into full-time retreat it would take between one month and one year to attain the state of calm abiding… and that is only the beginning of the Buddhist meditation path!! I am already considering going into a three month retreat next year.
Early on Tuesday morning we made our way down to His Holiness (HH) the Dalai Lama’s temple to await his arrival. Slowly the crowd grew as more and more Tibetans, Indians and foreigners gathered. After a number of hours, the clouds broke and we were drenched with a refreshing rain. His Holiness’s car flew by and everyone whipped out cameras on video setting… On slow motion you can just see his head in silhouette!
The next day, we made our way to the temple again to attend a Puja – HH, in his infinite compassion, was making prayers for the victims of the China earthquake. We waited downstairs for his arrival and were blessed to see him walk past only 1.5 meters away. His energy was absolutely beautiful and overwhelming and I was in a state of absolute joy. Later, after the Puja, we saw HH again and I couldn’t help but cry tears of joy. He is truly amazing and special! He is truly Chenrezig, the Buddha of Compassion! Om Mani Padme Hum!
The following two days we went to the Tibetan Children’s Village, where HH was giving teachings to Tibetan youth. Again, I was blessed to see him another four times, and to listen to the teachings translated over the radio. Such a special few days! On the final day, I took my camera and was able to take a few photos that I will cherish as a reminder of my ‘meeting’ the Dalai Lama.
Yesterday, a small group of Tushita people made the journey down through Dharamsala to see the Norbulingka Institute, a beautiful place where Tibetan culture is being preserved. We saw artists creating stunningly intricate Thangka paintings (paintings representing Tibetan Buddhist Deities), embroidery and other crafts. Afterward, we journeyed to the Gyuto Monastery where we met HH the Karmapa. He is the head of the Kagyu lineage of Tibetan Buddhism (you can check him out at www.karmapa.org). He is only 22 years old but already a powerful monk and we were able to receive a blessing from him.
This morning I have left my comfortable room in Mcleod-town and have headed to the hills of Upper Bhagsu. I have a gorgeous little cottage (a cow lives downstairs!) that I have made home and I plan to spend the next couple of weeks just relaxing, reading, meditating, singing and walking amongst the trees! Oh, and I will write and send the occasional job application too!

Tushita - 10-day Introduction to Buddhism Course

Om Mani Padme Hum!

My journey from Bodhgaya to Dharamsala was not without its challenges! I was amazed that the friendly travel agent at Root Institute was able to pull it all together and the plan allowed plenty of time for me to arrive to start my Intro to Buddhism course.
4am, I met the taxi and travelled through the darkness on the morning of Wesak (Buddha Jyanthi) to Gaya train station. My journey to Varanasi was uneventful and I found a rickshaw to take me to my guest house where I had a quick shower, collected my luggage and then made my way out to the airport. Arriving a good hour before my plane was due to leave, I checked in and prepared for the flight. After four hours of delay (due to 'mechanical difficulties'), I finally boarded the plane, praying that I would arrive in Delhi with sufficient time to catch my 10.10pm train to Pathankot. A speedy (but safe) taxi ride delivered me to the station a bit before 10 and I raced in (well as much as I could race, carrying a backpack, frontpack and guitar!), trying desperately to find the right platform. Finally, I arrived at the empty platform at 10.16pm and was told the train had already left. The station manager took pity upon me and arranged a ticket on another train that would deliver me some hours from Dharamsala. I slept a little through the night, delighting in the amazing thunderstorms that lit the night sky. I didn't even know where I should depart the train, but a kindly young man drew a map for me and I finally knew my station. Then, a taxi journey took me directly to Tushita where I had a small emotional breakdown, slept a bit and had a hot bucket shower.
The joys of travel in India!
The course has been challenging emotionally and physically. Though not as rigorous as vipassana, the knees still hurt a lot when sitting for long periods. Following the Lam Rim, or graduated path to enlightenment, we undertook analytical meditations on suffering, the certainty of death, the law of karma, and Emptiness, and then some less challenging topics such as developing bodhicitta and compassion for all beings. As the course progressed, I faced the internal nasties of pride, anger, ignorance and doubt and saw their effects in my life. I was also filled with happiness, love, compassion and generosity, and saw the great capacity within me to help others.
I am truly inspired to commit to regular meditation practice, and to work in a more conscious way with the unhelpful mind states. I can see more clearly than ever the purpose and goal of meditation practice and am very grateful to Dana, the meditation teacher. Venerable Dayki, an Australian-born Buddhist nun who led the teachings, was so lovely and I felt really comfortable discussing some of my philosophical and practical difficulties with her (like, are God and Emptiness essentially the same?? Can I take Refuge - become Buddhist - and still pray to God?? What would my day look like if I walk this path?).
We'll see!!
The last evening we made a light offering at the Stupa of Lama Yeshe, the Guru and founder of the Foundation for the Preservation of Mahayana Tradition. As we sat and gazed at hundreds of candles flickering, we recited Om Mani Padme Hum into the night, blessing all sentient beings with the wish that they be happy, and free from suffering. The mantra was so gentle... so beautiful... I cannot describe in words. It was truly a blessing to be there. Om Mani Padme Hum!
Lots of love to everyone!!
Chelle

Bodhgaya

Hello Dearies,

I have been in Bodhgaya (the place of Buddha's Enlightenment) for the past 5 days. Having searched in the centre of town for a suitable place to stay (hot, noisy and lots of harassment from enterprising young locals wanting to sell cds), I eventually walked out to the Root Institute for Wisdom Culture. There I found a retreat centre that was clean, with a gorgeous gompa in which to practice meditation, and access to a very well stocked library; including course materials introducing the Lam Rim (graduated path) of Tibetan Buddhism. The spiritual director has been happy to assist me, providing an mp3 filled with guided meditations, and we have had daily informal discussions regarding various aspects of dharma (Buddhist teachings).
Each day I begin my self-directed retreat with mindfullness meditation, and analytical meditation on aspects of the path follows breakfast. As two of the volunteer staff members are heading to London for a month, I offered my assistance... it just happened to coincide with the mail-out of their once-yearly newsletter so I have been spending some hours each afternoon filling envelopes and attaching address labels (while quietly chanting Om Mani Padme Hum, the mantra of compassion!!). At about 4.30 I walk into town to visit the stupa and bodhi tree (a descendent of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment), circumnabulating or just sitting quietly. Even with the many pilgrims, the place is amazingly peaceful, and the energy is very transformative.
After dinner I watch the Discovering Buddhism videos, which cover aspects of the Lam Rim in a really accessible way - I am learning a lot! It is wonderful to gain such a context for practice - beyond the simplicity of vipassana, the Tibetan path lays out stages of practice and cultivation of particular realisations. It all makes sense! My day closes with another meditation, on particular Tibetan Buddhist deities or purification practices.
The Institute has a health centre attached, and I was lucky enough to go with one of the doctors out to a rural health clinic. The mobile clinic runs 6 days a week, attending different rural communities. Bihar has a huge population and is the poorest state in India so there are massive health problems from malnutrition to TB to HIV/AIDS. The centre has two health educators that attend the rural clinics as part of a strong committment to health awareness and a preventive approach. The clinic provides homeopathic treatment for most health concerns, however there is also allopathic treatment available to manage more serious conditions, including an HIV/AIDS management program.
Am not sure how much longer I will stay here in Bodhgaya... at least until Wesak on the 19th. I am mindful that I still need to go to some touristy destinations before heading up north to do some more study in Dharamsala! Am considering changing my flight to allow a little more time in this amazing country...

Varanasi - Bodhgaya

Wow! Varanasi is truly amazing. I arrived after an overnight train journey (read: very little sleep) and was taken by autorickshaw to Elvis Guest House in a tiny cobble-stoned street by the Shivala Ghat. I spent my first day walking for hours along the ghats, spending time at the cremation ghats, contemplating impermanence, watching people bathing in the Ganga, cruising by on boats, and just generally hanging out. Eventually, as the sun became higher and hotter in the sky, I made my way through the narrow streets (barely missed by passing motorcycles), and went in search of some simple cotton punjabi suits to wear. Hours later, I emerged successfully carrying clothes, some bracelets and bindis, and returned to my guest house. That night, Lala, the guest house owner took two french girls and I to the main Puja at the Dasawamedh Ghat. It was the most beautiful devotional ritual... a rhythmic dance of graceful wrist movements; six young men swinging incence, elaborate candleabras and other objects to the four directions. At the completion of the ritual, I sent a small woven cup filled with flowers and a candle out to the mother Ganga as an offering.
Next day, Lala took us by rickshaw to some of the Hindu temples. It was wonderful to connect with this living spiritual tradition and to offer prayers at each of the temples. In the afternoon, I went to a house nearby where two girls put henna on my hands and feet. In the evening, I attended a concert of Indian classical music, tabla, flute and sitar, very meditative.
This morning I took an early boat ride on the Ganga, watching the sunrise as young boys practiced yoga on the ghats, men flew kites from boats and tourists took photos of the happily swimming and playing locals. Lala had arranged a Baba (spiritual teacher) to do my astrology so I went and had a reading. Though I would have loved to be convinced that he was legit, my critical mind was very aware that most of the things he said, I had already discussed with Lala... what a pity. When offered a talisman to protect me against negative situations for the next few years, I politely declined. Well, it is Varanasi, home to the spiritual and scammer!

I had a long motorcycle ride out to the train station, arriving only five minutes before the train left. The train ride to Bodhgaya was HOT and pretty full of people, but I have survived and arrived, and will go to the place where Buddha attained enlightenment tomorrow after a morning zen meditation session at the Japanese Monastery. Yippeeee!

Day One - INDIA

He he he!! I am in INDIA! Am waiting for my 10.45pm train to Varanasi, and happily digesting an awesome veg-thali dinner. After months of dahl baht, this food is seriously GOOD (no offence to the Nepalis... I mean, dahl baht is good, but it's really only dahl, and rice, and vegetables... Thali includs all that, but THREE different kinds of veg curry, there was paneer, two different veg curries, masses of chappati, AND gulab jamun (sweet dessert)). I just hope the belly copes with all the new families of bacteria!
This morning, having slept (or attempted sleep) in the little town of Bairwara, I set out on motorbike to Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. My guide took me straight to the actual birthplace; there is a building (the Maha Devi temple) that houses the ruins of an older building (2nd and 7th century BC) and in the centre there is a stone that marks the Buddha's birthplace. I was filled with gratitude and awe to be there, all the stories of the Buddha's life flooding into my mind. I saw two little white rats who've found a home right next to the stone... enlightened rats they were!
All around the Maha Devi temple are pagodas and temples representing the Buddhist traditions from around the world. The German temple was beautiful and in the Tibetan style... my guide and I ran cirlces, turning the massive Mani wheels and chanting Om Mani Peme Hung! We also visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, Royal Thai temple, Indian temple and Burmese pagoda. Amazing!
Feels good to be on the road again... will try to keep the blog relatively up-to-date!

Kathmandu - STILL!!

Howdy Folks,

Long time no write! I have spent the past few weeks in Kathmandu, living at Happy Home guest house. Although I finally got my India visa, circumstances suggested that I stay in Nepal just a little longer. For a while I was feeling lost, wandering the streets of Thamel (tourist section of Kathmandu) and feeling overwhelmed with the noise, beggars and consumer culture. So I took myself to a yoga class where I met Catherine (an aussie who has been volunteering for 5 months) and later, in the yoga teacher's office, Robert (from Spain, who will be volunteering for 5 months). Turns out that Catherine was about to run a Leadership course for Trekking Guides through the Kathmandu Environmental Education Project. I cheerfully offered my help, and eventually she agreed. I assisted with the course preparation then attended the five day course, running the practical exercises and other activities. It was great to spend time with the trekking leaders and I found that the course material was all very familiar from my previous studies - leadership styles, assertiveness, problem solving, conflict management... etc etc. KEEP ran a beautiful closing ceremony, where the 'respected teachers' were offered Kata (scarves), a certificate of appreciation and a present! I felt very warm and fuzzy.
Have also been spending time 'getting to know' my singing bowls and have reconnected with my inner healer, offering reiki to a friend and helping to set up a reiki practice group with Robert at a local Osho-based healing centre. Have also been practicing some Osho meditations and went out to the Osho retreat at Nagarjun Forest Reserve yesterday - absolutely gorgeous setting! Am not yet convinced that the meditations are for me though.
I have met so many lovely people in this town, have got a decent grasp on the Nepali language (tourist-basics!), have learned to love dahl baht for lunch and dinner, and no longer mind the harrassment to buy tiger balm, smoke, necklace or take rickshaw (Chine Dai Na - I don't need). It will be very hard to leave, but I had set myself a deadline regarding volunteer work and I will stick to it: if I didn't find any health-related volunteer work by Wednesday, I go to India with Katrin (my Annapurna trekking partner)... So, we go to India!
We will take the bus to Sunauli then train to either Varanasi or across to Delhi then north to Dharamsala and Mcleod Ganj. Everyone I meet who has just arrived from Varanasi says we are crazy to consider going there now as it is about 45 degrees, however I feel that Varanasi is essential India and I don't want to miss it! Dilemmas!
Chat soon!

Chitwan - Kathmandu

Given that my Nepal visa is due to expire on the 21st, I thought I should cut my trek short, get myself to Chitwan then Kathmandu and arrange my India visa so I wouldn't have to buy another Nepal visa. I took an amazing flight from Jomsom to Pokhara - 18 minutes in a tiny plane flying alongside amazingly huge mountains, over forests of pink and red rhododendron, tiered fields of green and sparkling rivers snaking down valleys. Absolutely stunning!
From Pokhara I journeyed to Chitwan National Park, moving from below zero to 35 degrees in the space of five days! During a canoe trip, jungle walk and elephant safari I saw two types of crocodile (harmless gharial and the man-eating mugger), spotted deer, rhino (so many rhino!!), monkeys, and many beautiful birds, including peacocks. We also found trails for a small snake and python, the sloth bear and some tiger prints and scat. Very cool!
Arriving in Kathmandu I made my way to the India embassy bright and early only to discover that it was closed for the day (a public holiday in India). All my best laid plans were set astray so I now need to buy another Nepal visa before being able to apply for an India visa. Looks like I will be in Kathmandu for a while yet.
Yesterday I traveled out to Bhaktipur to see the old city. There are amazing buildings, temples and wood carvings, including a temple to Shiva and Parvati covered in images of animals in erotic embraces!
Today we (Kate and Amit from London and Manu and Vanessa from Belgium) set out (nursing hangovers) to Pashupatinath, a Hindu temple and site for cremations. It was very confronting to see families grieving for their loved ones at the rivers edge as the bodies were prepared for cremation. During this reflection on impermanence, we were approached by a local television crew and asked some inane questions regarding our experience of traveling in Nepal... how bizarre. We also saw a group of ash-covered sadhus painting their bodies for the day, using tiny mirrors and looking terribly vain for people who are supposed to have renounced the world.
We then walked to Bodnath, which is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. It was an amazing place, absolutely buzzing with noise, mantras and music filling the air and a riot of colour as locals slowly circled the stupa. I spent a good amount of time in a Tibetan singing bowl shop and emerged finally (to my companions' relief) with a small bowl for meditation. It has a gorgeous tone and is lovely to sing along with. Yeay!

Annapurna Circuit

It is day 17 of my trek and I have taken a rest day in Jomsom.
For the past 16 days, my feet have led me through snow-capped mountains, desert valleys, fir and pine forests covered in snow (winter wonderlands!) and gorgeous old stone villages. I have passed countless mani wheels and mani walls, crossed many crazy rocking suspension bridges over tumultuous rivers, seen frozen waterfalls, yaks grazing, blue glaciers suspended over mountain-tops, and slid down scree slopes, snow and mud paths.
In villages along the way I have played guitar against the mountain backdrop, eaten dahl bhat, apple pie, chocolate walnut cake (divine!), vegie burger and vegie lasgania (sic) and bathed from buckets of hot water in freezing cold bathrooms with the wind blowing through open windows. I have witnessed a spontaneous sleeping bag stuffing competition, participated in a rather heated snow fight, watched the film 'Caravan' ("I am Tinle, I conquer passes!") in a freezing and tiny cinema, watched amazing sunrises and sunsets and gone to bed before 8pm just about every day.
I have had belly sickness, blisters, headaches, shortness of breath and have visited doctors of the Himalayan Rescue Association at both Manang and Thorung Base Camp.

The day before yesterday, I crossed the Thorung La Pass, which is about as high as you can walk without climbing a mountain, at 5416 metres (2 1/2 Mount Kosciuszkos). After reading a lot of information about altitude sickness and hearing an information talk given by the Himalayan Rescue Association, I was super conscious (to the point of paranoia) of the symptoms, however I crossed the pass with the help of a local porter and little more than shortness of breath and a teensy headache. It was a damn hard slog up the scree slope then through snow up and down a series of false summits, especially with so little oxygen available. After the pass, we had to race down as the boys (Darryl and Benny) were both in bad shape with headache, nausea, blueness of lips, lethargy and vomiting. We decended 1600 meters (oooh, knees) to Muktinath where we fell ravenously on steaming dahl bhat and hot tea.

Pokhara

Howdy All!

Just a quick message to say G'day before I begin the Annapurna Circuit trek.
This morning Tilly and I walked up to Saranghot to view the Annapurna Ranges... the clouds were rising fast but we were able to see the peak of Macchapucchare and some of the Annapurna mountains. Absolutely stunning, amazing and splendiferous!! I am soooo excited about the trek, and just a little bit nervous as I am way out of shape after the meditation retreat.
I have made all necessary trekking-gear purchases and my pack is ready to go. The knee braces, trekking poles, anti-inflammatory drugs, as well as anti-giardia medicine are all packed. I have registered with the Annapurna Conservation Area office and with the Trekkers Information Management System in Kathmandu.
Tomorrow Katrin and I will meet our guide and make our way via a tourist-free area to the beginning of the Annapurna Circuit (or Around Annapurna Trail). We are going to take it slowly to acclimatise (and avoid altitude sickness hopefully) as the trek reaches a height of 5416m at the Thorung La Pass. Should be about 21 days to complete the journey.
Will post some stories and photos when I return to Pokhara at the other end!!
Love to you all!
Chelle

Holi!

He he he!!

I love Nepal! What a fabulous country! Where else (but India of course) does an entire country close down so the people can throw water and coloured powder at each other??!! I highly recommend that Melbourne consider adding Holi to its calender of festivals.
Today I woke up early to the sounds of shouting laughter and slowly made my way out of bed. Outside, all the shops were closed and the streets just about deserted... but as the day grew, more and more young people (mostly men) emerged with buckets, water balloons and plastic bags full of coloured powder.
We started 'playing holi' from the rooftops, throwing water on those far below along with the guest house staff and eventually - when we were soaked through, made our way onto the streets. I hung out with my new friends Kishan, Manoj and Tilly and we made our way through the streets of Nepal's old town. Along the way we encountered hundreds of young men, all of whom shouted 'Happy Holi' and smeared our faces with coloured powder or threw water bombs at us. It was hilarious and fun and eventually painful (I'm sure there'll be bruises tomorrow) and very, very satisfying.
Yipeee!

Nepal Shenanigans

Wooo Hoooo! I am in Nepal. I can't believe how excited I am, even considering the day I've had.
Yesterday I was up at 6.30am to travel by bus from Pai to Chiang Mai, then by overnight train to Bangkok. I foolishly assumed that there would be a shower on the train so skipped the outdoor bathroom experience (cold shower) out back of my hut at the organic farm. The train journey was looong, and my night's sleep was interrupted by various stops through the night, always accompanied by loud speaker announcements. So, having arrived at Bangkok train station, I found a taxi and made my way to Bangkok International Airport. There I foolishly assumed that I would find an ATM as I had spent my last 350 baht on the taxi fare (and was still short the toll fare so ended up giving the driver my two packets of noodles for his lunch to make up the difference). In desperation for a shower (it had been two nights and my scalp was crawling) and with the intention of baggsing a window seat, I quickly checked in for my flight and deposited my luggage.
After I had successfully 'departed' Thailand at the visa counter, I discovered there is no ATM at the Bangkok airport so I was completely cashless and still desperate for a shower. I searched one end of the international terminal to the other and was kindly rejected from using the Thai Airways lounge (only for first and business class passengers - prats). By now I was feeling the lack of sleep and noticing my temper was getting shorter (annoyed, annoyed, annoyed... angry, angry, angry). I eventually found a day spa and was able to pay for a shower (400 baht - that's the most expensive shower I have ever had) using my visa card. It was divine! Oh, to be clean!
I boarded the plane smelling far sweeter than I might have otherwise and we had a fairly smooth journey. Having failed in my intention to get a window seat, unfortunately I didn't see any of the Kathmandu approach.
The lonely planet had said that the airport had an ATM next to the visa desks, however, there was no ATM inside so I had to leave my passport and go outside, where, of course, the ATM was not working. I had some moments of amused panic... how would this little dilemma be resolved? After considering asking complete strangers to loan me the $30 for the visa, I discovered there is a 3-day visa for free. I took the visa after reassuring the immigration staff that I would go to the Department of Immigration in town to obtain a 30-day visa.
I have found a place to stay, the Happy Home Guest House, and have already found a new friend, a fellow who runs music treks. Trek all day then play music all night! What fun! Have just been convinced to buy a sandlewood flute and a bracelet even though I had no intentions of spending any money at all... these guys are damn good! Have also traded my too-small boots in for a better fitting but lower quality pair. Am hoping they will last the distance of my trek.
Tomorrow is Holi, a celebration where everyone (well, the young and young at heart) throws coloured water or paint on each other, fabulous timing to arrive in the city. Gotta go have some dinner!

Tacome Pai

Howdy Folks,

Today is my three month travel anniversary! Have just spent two (well one and a half really) lovely days at an organic farm just out of Pai in Northern Thailand. Pai is a little hippy town that is filled with 'healthy food' restaurants, healing centres (reiki and massage courses in abundance) and great clothing and tribal craft shops.

I had heard about the organic farm from Jody at Vipassana (the conversation occuring after we had finished!!). She had planned to spend a few days learning some sustainable skills from the owner (Sandot) and ended up spending over a week! Tacome Pai has been in Sandot's family for three generations. He has transformed the land into a sustainable organic farm that welcomes travellers who would like to learn organic farming, or who would like to relax for a while! The accommodation was a variety of different hill tribe huts made mostly from bamboo, stones, or straw bales. Bamboo is used everywhere and for everything, including bamboo dishes and spoons for dinner and breakfast.

On my first evening I was playing guitar and singing some mantras when a woman from Holland and her 8yr old son joined me. We sang for ages and they taught me some new mantras... it was so lovely to share spiritual music with others and to sing in harmony again!!

I would have loved to have stayed for longer but Nepal calls. Am about to board the overnight train for Bangkok then I leave South-East Asia. How quickly these three months have flown... and how blessed I have been to enjoy many wonders and experiences.

PS. Photos are of the sunrise view from my 'balcony', my hut, a little friend inhabiting my bathroom and the path through mango trees to the kitchen.

21-day Meditation Retreat at Wat Doi Suthep

I have just emerged from a 21 day retreat at the major Wat in Chiang Mai, Doi Suthep. Am not sure how much detail I can give here to encapsulate the experience, but will do my best!

Over the course of 21 days, my general timetable was as follows:
4.30am, rise, make prostrations and begin walking, standing and sitting meditation.
6.30am, receive breakfast
8.00am, receive dhamma talk (Teacher sharing major concepts of buddhist philosophy and practice via theory and stories)
9-11am, practice sitting and walking meditation
11.00am, receive lunch then rest, walk, sit.
12.30pm, practice sitting and walking meditation
3.00pm, report to Teacher, explain problems, receive advice.
4.00 - 8.30ish, practice sitting and walking meditation, listen to monks chanting at main temple next to stupa or look at the amazing view over Chiang Mai as the sun sets.
9ish, practice lying meditation then sleep.

On the first day, I was taught how to make mindful prostrations (bowing to the Buddha), and given the first techinques. I began with 15 minutes walking and 15 minutes sitting and during the course progressed to 50 minutes walking and 50 minutes sitting. The walking meditation began with 'right goes thus, left goes thus', then progressed through a number of steps until 'heel up, lifting, moving, lowering, toe down, putting'.

For the sitting meditation, the first few days I was practicing concentration on the rising and falling of the belly, then was invited to bring awareness to various points on the body. I was given two new points each day to progressively move my consciousness through the body.

When the mind wandered away to sounds, or thoughts, or feelings, I noted the experience then returned to the practice. So, walking meditation might go: 'right goes thus, left goes thus, right.... hmmmm, wonder what I should take to Nepal with me? Perhaps I could swap my boots there for a pair that fits....'. Then becoming aware, 'Thinking, thinking, thinking... Right goes thus, left goes thus, right goes thus...' etc.

Over time, so many different thoughts and experiences arose. I became aware of many tendencies which are just part of human experience... worry, anger, sadness. And the body also presented many sensations... pain, itching, discomfort, restlessness. For all these things, my task was simply to note them and let go. I was also noting sense objects as well, seeing, hearing, smelling, tasting etc. So if I looked out the window to the forest and saw small squirrels racing about the trees, I noted, seeing, seeing, seeing.

During meditation (as reflecting general life), there were 5 hindrances that arose also - kind of like subconcious undermining of the practice; sloth (sleepiness), restlessness and worry, doubt, liking and disliking. I loved the morning meditation just before lunch (liking, liking, liking) because I could smell the food being prepared for my dinner. Sometimes, the allocated time would seem to take hours (waiting, waiting, waiting) and I would become impatient for it to finish (restlessness, restlessness, restlessness). Other times, particularly after lunch, I would be so sleepy I couldn't concentrate at all (sleepy, sleepy, sleepy).

While meditators are advised not to speak for the duration of the retreat on about day 8 or 9 I noticed people having quiet conversations. I overheard two meditators talking about the 'Termination period'. My curiosity was piqued. Eventually, on about day 14, Teacher said to me with mock seriousness, 'On day 17 you will be going into the Period of Determination. This is three days. First, no speaking; second, no shower; third, (here, he paused) no sleeping'. I thought, 'oh, that's not so bad, I can handle not sleeping for one night'. On day 16, Teacher gave more detail and I discovered I had misunderstood him initially. On day 17, I went into my room where I was to stay for 3 days and nights, without showering, talking or sleeping. My meals were delivered to me and each morning at reporting, I received new instructions for practice.

Day one, I cannot really recall, however the first night was filled with doubt and anger... walking meditation went thus 'This is stupid, what is Teacher thinking? What's the point of this? How can this help me?'. And my body was desperate for sleep. When practicing sitting meditation, my head would drop forward as my consciousness fell into a deeper place like sleep. At reporting the next morning, my Teacher thanked me for my practice and explained that the first day shows our commitment to practice and ability to stay with the experience.

The second day I was given a new task; to practice longer periods of walking meditation and progressively shorter periods of sitting. In the sitting, I was to count how many times my head dropped forward. I wished I had a set of mala beads (prayer beads) as these would have helped the counting! The first two sits, I was able to record precisely how many times the dropping occured. The next few, during the day, there was no dropping at all. Through the night I could make no accurate record as my mind was beyond counting. The walking meditation became more and more painful as my feet were meeting on tiled floor beneath a thin carpet.

The task for the third day was to practice lovingkindness, forgiveness and to come to a peaceful sensation. Teacher reminded me to rest, 'take care your mind, take care your body', so I spent time massaging my feet and set shorted periods of practice for myself. During the walking meditation, many random people came into my consciousness and to each one, I asked forgiveness for any hurt I may have caused, and gave forgiveness for any hurt given to me. It was a wonderfully healing and heart-opening day. The third night my body had come to its limit and though I tried to practice walking meditation, the pain was too great, my body was slipping to the left and right with each step and I had to sit down. Nor could I practice sitting meditation, my body was lurching forward and to the side with each moment. At about 3.30 in the morning I sat in a comfortable upright position 'just for a moment', I thought, and woke at 4.30 when another meditator went to the bathroom. She had just completed her period of determination, and as she walked by my room she said, 'Congratulations, you made it'. I replied 'But I fell asleep!'. And she let me know that just about everyone does at some point. I was able to complete one more round of sitting and walking before going to report to my Teacher.

He explained that the three day period of Determination creates conditions in which we can learn to be with very strong experience, whether that be very high or very low. To sit with that experience is a wonderful skill for life. Although it was very difficult, I am grateful to have had the opportunity. It was actually fascinating to watch how the body and mind were effected by the lack of sleep, and to see how strong I can be in overcoming the instincts of the body. It has changed my relationship to sleep and I hope that in future when I am tired, I will not automatically become cranky.

I am so grateful to have had this experience. After reading Buddhist meditation books for so many years, it is wonderful to have received dhamma teachings from someone who lives those teachings. Although the 'silent' aspect of the retreat had diminished to full conversations between meditators by the end, it was still a rewarding time. The staff were supportive, the food was amazing, and our Teacher was kind, warm, compassionate and wise. I hope to continue to apply the teachings to my for the benefit of myself and my family, friends, colleagues, acquaitances...

So, onto Pai to stay at an organic farm for three days, then I fly to Nepal!!!

Gibbon Experience

In the north-west of Laos there is an amazing national park, Bokeo, where a unique trekking experience has been set up. I was lucky enough to find a place on the Waterfall Experience so packed my bags and set off. I arrived early in the day from Luang Nam Tha to a tiny little town (two shops!) where I stayed overnight with the Irish girls. At lunch time, a previous Gibbon group arrived for lunch, along with a couple of Aussie girls who had pulled out of their trek due to paralysing fear... Not a great beginning, however the others raved about their experience so we boarded the sangtheaw to head into the jungle with a mixture of trepidation and excitement.
After travelling along winding and dusty roads for about 40 minutes, we arrived in a little village where groups of people lay exhausted on the grass. We met our guides then ventured forth, walking through corn fields initially, then crossing a few rivers via cantankerous bamboo bridges and plunging through massive clumps of bamboo.
We climbed steadily into the mountains, sweating and panting until we reached a small hut and were fitted with abseiling harnesses. Heading into the jungle again, we eventually came to a wire attached to a large tree. The wire was very long, disappearing into the distance through the trees. One by one, we were attached to it and encouraged to leap off the small wooden platform into the unknown. The zip wires were awesome! Once attached, I was flying through the air, high above the treetops and able to see out to the mountains either side, and rivers far below. I took some video footage and photos, but they cannot convey the experience fully (just make sure you book in when you are next visiting Laos!).
After some trekking and zip wires we zipped into our accommodation for the night - a double story tree house complete with bathroom overlooking a magnificant view, comfy beds and dinner and breakfast delivered via zip wire from the nearby forest kitchen. The jungle sounds during the night were awesome and I wished for some decent recording equipment to bring it home with me.
The next day we trekked early in the morning along slippery paths (actually, we slipped along trekking paths) in search of some wildlife. We were able to hear the Gibbons but didn't see any creatures. After breakfast we hiked to the next tree house and then had lunch and went swimming in a bone-crunchingly freezing river below the waterfall. One of the guides had built a bamboo raft for us so we spent time navigating the river in it. Very refreshing and lots of fun.
On day three we packed up and walked back out of the jungle, taking in the sights and sounds. The experience overall was great, but the downfall was the lack of communication from the guides. I wished that my uncle Stu had been there to name and explain the flora (some of which resembled plants from the daintree)! After arriving back at the village, exhausted from all the trekking, we stopped for a tasty fried rice then made our way over the border into Thailand.
I am now residing in sunny Chiang Mai, where I will be sitting a vipassana retreat for the next 21 days at the International Buddhism Centre at Doi Suthep so, no blogging for a while! I will emerge from retreat on the 16th March then fly to Nepal on the 20th!

Luang Nam Tha

A few days ago I took a day trek out to hill villages where we were invited to join a wedding celebration (lao whisky shots all round). Later, at the Tad Sae waterfalls, we chanced upon a training session for elephants. I was offered flowers by a young foont and was surprised to observe their skills in soccer. While it was amazing to see the dexterity of these magnificant animals, it was also a little sad. Surely these great beings should not be made to sit and lie down on command?
Yesterday, finally, I extricated myself from the warm embrace of Luang Prabang!! Have safely arrived in the tiny town of Luang Nam Tha. Its main claim to fame is its proximity to the National Protected Area, which hosts tigers, leopards, 200-and-something bird species.
Today I went for a trek through the jungle, up and down hazardously slippery trails with my freshly-cut walking stick. We had lunch laid out on leaves; sticky rice, pumpkin, spicy tofu and biscuits. We then stopped in an Akha village and shared rice wine with the village chief and swapped songs... an Irish tune, Laos love song, Hebrew walking song and Aussie offering (Waltzing Mathilda was all I could come up with I regret to say!!). In the village was a tiny hut on stilts with a removable ladder and our guide said it is for the boys aged between 13-17... a fine way to manage raging hormones! We danced the can-can for the village children (how's that for cultural exchange?!) then boarded the sangthaew to head back to town.
Tomorrow I am heading west to go to the Gibbon Experience so will be out of reach for a few days!

Luang Prabang -Continued!

I am still in Luang Prabang... I have grown rather attached to this little town in Laos. I keep thinking that I should move on and see the rest of Laos, but I am so comfy here... it's hard to leave!

Over the past few days I have visited a gorgeous waterfall, met a full-grown tiger, swung into a wonderful swimming hole tarzan-style, crept into caves filled with Buddha statues, hung out with local Laos children, eaten heaps of yummy food, ridden a mountain bike along rocky and dusty roads with a local guide for company, ridden an elephant, read a few books, booked a bus to Vang Vieng then cancelled the bus to Vang Vieng (due to belly upset that swept in unnanounced then departed just as quickly), played guitar with Laos locals and met loads of spunky, friendly, intelligent falang (foreigners). I have also farewelled many friends and have been experiencing the pain that arises out of attachment (perhaps my Vipassana retreat process is beginning already!).

After meeting two lovely young men from Melbourne who are travelling around SEAsia on mountain bike (heading out to the wilds along goat tracks and trade routes and staying in tiny villages along the way), I am inspired to spend some time off the tourist trail and to visit some more remote areas of this beautiful country.

Tomorrow I will join some Canadians who are heading out to the jungle for some trekking and visits to remote Hmong villages.